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April 17, 2014

Sewing Tutorial: Custom Flared Skirt

Sewing Tutorial: How to create a custom skirt pattern that fit's almost anyoneI am always excited when somebody requests a custom project. It makes me extra happy when it's my own child. Her request, a superhero skirt with her favorite Marvel characters. Apparently she had seen the fabric on one of our recent trips to Jo-Ann.

The skirt hangs 17 1/2 inches from the waist and the pattern can be modified to fit just about anyone. I used 100% cotton quilting fabric. There are so many color and pattern choices available, you are sure to find the perfect print whether it's princesses, ponies or superheros.

Materials


  • 24 x 24 inch piece of paper
  • pen or pencil
  • ruler
  • sewing tape measure
  • 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 yards of fabric
  • 2 yds of 2-inch wide elastic
  • sewing supplies (scissors, pins, thread, sewing machine, iron)
  • disappearing ink fabric marker (optional)

Directions


To make my design, I reverse engineered one of my daughter's other skirts. Here's how...
We'll start by drawing the pattern. You can use pen or pencil. I used markers just so it would photograph better.

Fold your paper in half and then open it up again. The pattern piece is symmetrical, so this creates a nice center line.

Now you'll need to do a little math, but don't worry.
Measure the hips of the person you are making the skirt for and add one inch. (For me it was 39 + 1 = 40) That's the number you will be using for the hip dimension.

Draw a rectangle at the top of your pattern that’s 5 inches long and (1/8 x hip) + 1 inch wide.

(The one inch here is for 1/2 inch seam allowance for each side.)

Make sure your rectangle is centered on the fold. It will make things easier later.
Next, draw a 17 1/2 inch line from the bottom of the waist, down the center fold line.

At the bottom of that line, draw a perpendicular line that's twice as wide as the waist line at the top.
Draw in lines that connect the bottom edge to the bottom of the waist band.
If you want your skirt to flare a little bit, add a slight curve to the sides of the pattern between the bottom of the waist and the bottom of the skirt.

Fold your paper in half again and cut out the pattern piece.
Before you cut the fabric, make sure to wash, dry and iron it. Fold the fabric in half, lengthwise.

There are a couple different ways you can lay out your pattern pieces depending on the width of your pattern pieces.

For wider skirts, lay one pattern piece on the fabric and another folded in half along the fabric fold.
For thinner skirts you may be able to fit two pattern pieces side by side, slightly staggered.

Cut out 8 fabric pieces.
Once you have your 8 pieces cut, you can begin assembling the skirt.

Pin two pieces, right sides together, and stitch along the side using a 1/2 inch allowance. Repeat the process to attach the remaining six pieces.

Do not sew the first piece to the last piece yet.
You may also want to serge or do a zig zag stitch along the seams so the edges don't fray.

Press the seams to one side.
Next, you'll create the waistband. Press the waist edge of the skirt over 1/2 inch, wrong sides together.
Now fold over 2 1/2 inches, press and pin. Stitch around 1/4 inch from the bottom of the waistband.

Measure your skirt recipient's waist and cut the elastic one inch shorter that their measured waist.
Insert the elastic into the waistband so that 1/2 inch sticks out on either end. Pin the elastic in place.
Pin the first and last pieces of the skirt, right sides together, and stitch using a  1/2 inch allowance.

Try on the skirt to ensure that the waist fits properly. If the skirt is too tight or too loose, you can easily open up the seam along the waistband and make adjustments.

Trim the elastic and serge or zig zag stitch along the seam if desired.
All that's left is the hem. You may notice that there are little points at the bottom of each seam. Trim them off.

The skirt has a 3/4 inch hem.
The easiest way to do this is to draw a line 1 1/2 inches from the bottom edge of the fabric with disappearing ink.
Fold the edge of the fabric up to the line, wrong sides together, and press. Then fold the fabric one more time, press, pin, and stitch.

A customized skirt is sure to put a smile on any girl's face!

Sewing Tutorial: How to create a custom skirt pattern that fit's almost anyone


7 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  2. Really nice and creative blog !

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    1. Thank you :) I love crafting - everything from sewing and knitting to creative reuse. I'm so glad I can share my favorite projects and hopefully inspire others!

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  3. How did you know that I wanted to make a skirt like this, for my next project LOL?! Thanks for the tute. Hope you've had a lovely Easter xx

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    1. Who wouldn't want to make this skirt for their next project ;) As soon as I find the right fabric print I'll be making one for myself, too.

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  4. Thanks a lot for the tutorial!! Being a petit, I always need to get my clothes resize in some way! Now I can do it on my own!

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    1. Your welcome! This would be a great pattern for petites.

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