Showing posts with label sponsored posts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sponsored posts. Show all posts

Clover Mini Weaving Loom Purse Tutorial

Learn how to weave a simple mini purse with the Clover Mini weaving Loom.

Weaving has been on my crafty bucket list for a long time. Every time I go to the yarn store I am tempted by the row of rigid heddle looms, but the price tags and time commitment to learn how to use the contraptions have always made me keep on walking.

So, I was very happy to start my adventures in weaving with a simple project on the Clover Mini Weaving Loom. I decided to make something practical for my first project, a small, phone sized purse.

I felt pretty bold when I searched through my stash yarn for the project. I chose three contrasting colors of a basic, worsted weight acrylic, but you could easily use a different type of fiber and more or less colors.

Many thanks to my friends at Clover USA for providing the tools for this post. They are also sponsoring this month's giveaway so you could win the tools needed to make your own woven purse.



The loom comes with great directions for how to set up the warp and start weaving. Familiarize yourself with the basic weaving instructions.

First, set up the warp on a single loom frame.
Next, you will wind the weft yarn onto the shuttle. The first time I did this I put waaay too much yarn on the shuttle making it very difficult to weave. There's a simple way to get almost exactly the right amount of yarn on the shuttle.
Wrap the yarn around the width of the shuttle and make sure there are no gaps between the strands. Set the shuttle on the loom and count how many times the yarn was wrapped between the two edges of the loom.

I wrapped the yarn 60 times, so the weft yarn will go across the loom about 60 times.
The shuttle is about the same width as the loom, so I need to wrap the weft yarn from one end of the shuttle and back to the other 30 times (that's 60/2).
Make a figure 8 abound one side of the shuttle, then the other, then wrap once around the middle. (That counts as 3 wraps.)

Repeat the process the necessary number of times. I did one extra repeat just to make sure I wouldn't run out of weft yarn.
Let the weaving begin!

Use the shed stick to lift every other strand of warp yarn so the shuttle can pass through.
Use the weaving comb to pull the weft yarns toward you.
Tuck in the tail as directed and keep weaving.

Over, under, over, under, back and forth.

The concept is pretty simple.
One thing that is very important to remember is not to pull the weft yarn, too tightly. This takes some practice.

If you are not paying attention, your weaving can very quickly become too tight and misshapen.
At a certain point, the weaving gets so close to the end of the loom that the shuttle will no longer fit between the warp strands.
Simply remove the weft yarn from the shuttle and use the needle to weave the rest of the piece.
For the record, my weft yarn passed across the piece 58 times in the first section, which was awfully close to my prediction of 60.
Pull off a spacing bar and carefully lift the first motif off the loom.
Before attaching the first motif to the second you need to cut a piece of yarn to set up the next warp.

Since there are 27 teeth on the spacer bars, wrap the yarn 27 times around the shuttle, then 3-4  more times just to make sure you have enough. No need for the fancy figure eights here because you are just using the shuttle to help you measure the yarn.
Cut the yarn, remove the yarn from the shuttle and use the needle to join the first motif and wind the warp yarn as directed.
Once the warp yarn is on the loom, wind the weft yarn onto the shuttle.

If you are using the same type of weft yarn as for the first motif, you can use the same approximations you did when wrapping the first shuttle full of weft yarn.
Weave the second motif.
Remove the second motif from the loom.
Measure out the warp yarn for the third motif.
Attach the second motif as directed and wrap the warp yarn.
Wrap the weft yarn onto the shuttle and finish the third motif.
Take the entire piece off the loom.

At this point, things may not look great.
Use the comb to even out the weft yarns.
Before evening things out, it looks like there are big spaces between the motifs.
Gently combing the weft yarns makes those gaps virtually disappear, but there are still a lot of loose ends.
Use a yarn needle to weave in and conceal all of the warp and weft tails as directed.
Things should be looking much better now.
Now it's time to make the strap. Figure out how long you would like your strap. Cut nine strands of yarn (three of each color) 1 1/2 times longer than the desired strap length. Braid the strands together and knot each end.

It's better to make your strap too long than too short. You can always trim it down later if you need to.
Decide which end of the weaving will be the flap of the bag. If one end is a little wider than the other, that's the end that should be the flap.

For me, the blue end was slightly wider than the white.
Fold the flap in half and place a locking stitch marker around the side warp yarn, between to wefts, at the fold.
Follow the weft yarn across and place a stitch marker on the opposite side of the flap.

It is very important that there are the same number of weft strands between the stitch marker and flap edge on both sides of the bag.
Cut a piece of yarn about 4-6 feet long. With a yarn needle, you will use this yarn to finish the side of the bag and attach the strap.

Fold your weaving, wrong sides together, so the end of the weaving is even with one of the stitch markers. Pull the yarn around the warp yarns along the side of the bag.

Pull the yarn through the same spot a second time to secure the end.
Slide the needle around the warp yarns under the next weft strands.
Position one side of the strap so the knot is at the bottom of the bag.

As you pull the needle through, make sure the yarn wraps around the strap to hold it in place.
Continue whip stitching down the side of the bag.
When you get to the end, pull the yarn tail up through a few of the whip stitches to conceal it and trim the end.
Now that one end of the strap is attached, double check the length and adjust it if necessary.
Attach the second strap and join the sides of the bag as before.
Turn the bag right side out.
Cut three strands of yarn 9 inches long and weave them together.

Use a yarn needle to pull each side of the braid under three weft yarns on the wrong side of the flap near the center.
Knot the braid ends and trim.

Use a needle and thread to sew a button onto the front of the bag.
Your mini weaving loom, mini purse is ready to go.This purse is a nice compact size for those times you just want to carry the necessities.

Learn how to weave a simple mini purse with the Clover Mini weaving Loom.

Happy weaving!

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Clover Mini Weaving Loom Giveaway

Feeling lucky? Here's your chance to enter a Clover Mini Weaving Loom and Quick Locking Stitch Marker Set.

Weaving has long been on my bucket list of crafts to try, but I've always been a bit intimidated by the row of rigid heddle looms at my local yarn store. Luckily, my friends at Clover USA had a solution for me, their Mini Weaving Loom.

This handy little gadget is perfect for weaving mug rugs, scarves, bags and more!

And what's better than fun craft tools? Winning them of course! Enter now for your chance to win a Mini Weaving Loom and Quick Locking Stitch Marker Set.

This giveaway is open to residents of the US and Canada and is not affiliated or associated in any way with Facebook or Instagram.

a Rafflecopter giveaway
And just in case you're curious, here's a peek at the bag I made with my loom. I hope you enjoy learning how to weave a mini bag of your own.

Good luck and happy crafting!

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Clover Oval Loom Sock Pattern

How to knit socks with a Clover Standing Oval Knitting Loom

This is the last project in my four part series featuring the Clover Standing Oval Knitting Loom that will keep you warm from head to toe. So far I've shown you how to make an earwarmer headband, a striped cowl and fingerless gloves. You're all cozy and covered except for your feet.

As a long time knitter (with pointy sticks), I have to say that these socks are faster to make than any other socks I have ever knit. I was easily able to make one sock in just an evening. The socks may be a little too chunky to wear in shoes, but they are absolutely perfect for wearing around the house as slippers. Or, if you feel cold all the time, like me, you could wear these socks inside your slippers.

Many thanks to Clover for providing me with a Standing Oval Knitting Loom. Also, if you would like an opportunity to win all the materials needed to complete all four patterns, don't miss this month's giveaway, going on through January 23, 2017, sponsored by Clover.


These materials are enough to complete all four patterns.


Again, familiarize yourself with the basic instructions included with the loom.

Begin by casting on with the Bubble Gum yarn following the directions included with the loom.

Row 1: Knit the first row by using the hook to lift the bottom wrap up and over the top wrap, then over the peg so only one wrap remains on each peg.

Row 2-9: With Bubble Gum, knit around all of the pegs.

Row 10: With the White yarn, skip the first peg, knit on the next three pegs, skip 1 peg by bringing the working yarn behind the peg, knit on the next 3 pegs. Repeat this pattern around the rest of the loom - skip one peg, knit on 3 pegs.

Row 11: With Bubble Gum, knit around all of the pegs.

Repeat Row 10 - 11 six more times.

Now for the heel. The heel section is worked entirely with a single strand of the Bubble Gum Yarn on the first 12 pegs only. Follow the directions included with the loom to make the heel.

After the heel is complete, work the foot rows in full rounds as before.

Row 12: With White yarn, [skip one peg by bringing the working yarn behind the peg, knit on next three pegs] repeat bracketed section around.

Row 13: With Bubble Gum, knit around all of the pegs.

Repeat Row 12 - 13 four more times.

Now it's time for a quick and easy calculation to make sure your sock fits nicely.

First, measure the length of your foot. Mine is 9 1/2 inches long.

Next, use measure the length of the pink heel section. For my sock it is 2 1/2 inches.
Then you need to measure the Gauge, or how many rows are in one inch. If you have already made the earwarmer, and are making your sock with the same yarn, you can use your previous gauge calculation. My gauge was 6 1/2 rows per inch.

Otherwise, you will need to measure the ankle of your sock and figure out how many rows are in one inch.
Now for the math.

     Number of  Foot Rows = (Gauge x [Foot Length - Heel Length]) + 2

     Example: Number of Foot Rows = ( 6 1/2 x [ 9 1/2 - 2 1/2]) + 2 = 45 1/2 + 2 = 47 1/2

Of course you can't make 1/2 of a round, so round your answer to the nearest even number. In my example that's 48.

(Note: For those of you who are wondering why my equation adds two extra rows and the equation in the loom directions doesn't, it has to do with how the heel is measure in my pattern. When you measure all of the pink heel rows, one of those rows is technically part of the ankle and not the heel, so you need to knit 1 extra row on the heel side of the foot and one on the toe side to make everything work out.)

Back to the loom.

Continue repeating Row 12 - 13 until your sock has the right number of foot rows. Trim the white yarn to about 12 inches.

Work the toe section, with one strand of Bubble Gum yarn, exactly the same way as the heel.

I chose to finish my sock differently than the loom instructions because I have a difficult time staying untangled when I do the Kitchener stitch. Instead, I grafted the same way as for the headband and cowl patterns.

Cut the Bubble Gum yarn about 120 inches or 10 feet long and use the strand to do a "Sewn Bind Off" as shown in the loom instructions.

Don't freak out when the sock comes off the loom because the toe looks crazy.
Follow the loom instructions for "Tightening and Finishing Edges" on both the cast on and bound off edges of the sock.
The toe is looking better already.
To graft the toe, you will need to look at the "V" shaped stitched that point toward the seam.

Using the same strand of yarn that was used for the bind off, slip the needle under both strands of the first "V" stitch that points up towards the opening on the toe side and gently pull the yarn through.
Next, slip the needle under the first pink"V" stitch that points towards the opening on the foot side and pull the yarn through.
Slide the needle under the next "V" stitch on the toe side
and then the next stitch on the foot side.
Continue grafting across the toe until it is completely joined. Trim the yarn to about 12 inches and pull the yarn through to the inside of the sock.

Weave in and conceal all of the yarn tails on the inside of the sock.
After you are done with the first sock, make a second exactly the same way.

Loom Knit Socks Pattern: The fourth of four Clover Oval Standing Knitting Loom projects that will keep you cozy from head to toe.

I hope you have enjoyed all four of my Clover Standing Oval Knitting Loom Patterns - the earwarmer headband, a cowl, fingerless gloves and socks. Again many thanks to Clover Needlecraft for sponsoring these posts.

Loom Knit Socks Pattern: The fourth of four Clover Oval Standing Knitting Loom projects that will keep you cozy from head to toe.

Happy loom knitting!

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