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Sleeve Island Getaway

Sleeve Island Getaway

I'm generally not a fan of seamless sweaters. Maybe it's because I learned how to sew garments before I learned how to knit them. Rather than launching into a rant about how seams provide structure and stability, let's just talk about the sleeves.

Knitting sleeves directly onto a seamless garment is problematic, especially long sleeves. It's hard to manage small circumference sleeve-knitting because of the added sweater bulk. It's especially difficult if you're trying to knit the sleeves two-as-a-time to ensure identical shaping. Eventually you land on Sleeve Island with one partially worked sleeve and one your dreading to knit.

Today, I'm escaping and I'll share a few of the strategies for my getaway.

Why I chose to knit a seamless sweater

Even though they're not my favorite, I'll admit there are advantages to seamless sweaters. I'm knitting a cardigan with hand spun yarn. It has a random, non-repeating, color gradient. Minimizing the number of sweater pieces makes the striping look more intentional.

I've finished knitting the body of my cardigan and am happy with the uninterrupted stripes.

Planning my escape from Sleeve Island

  1. Avoiding the bulk - Rather than knitting my sleeves directly onto the sweater, I'm going to knit them, then graft them in place.
  2. Embracing provisional cast ons - Using a wrapped, Turkish-style, provisional cast on at the sweater underarm means everything is ready for sleeve-grafting on the sweater side. (Although I will need to address the gaps on either side of the underarm.) Using a provisional crochet chain cast on at the top of the sleeves gives me a sense of security knowing the held waste yarn stitches won't escape as I knit.
  3. Minimizing yarn tails - Rather than weaving in the cast on yarn tail and both ends of a grafting yarn, I left a long tail when I cast on each sleeve and will use those tails to graft. (Two tails to weave in instead of six!)
  4. Matching, evenly spaced shaping decreases - Paired decreases along an imaginary "seam-line" are awkward. I'm using 4 decreases around the circumference to give a more fluid shape. Also, working the sleeves two-at-a-time means the shaping rounds for each sleeve will be in the same location.
  5. Two needles, not magic loop - I know I'm likely in the minority but I do not enjoy the magic loop method for small circumference knitting. I opted for two long circular needles rather than one.
  6. Oops... not enough needle tips - With only one set of interchangeable bamboo needles, I have two tips in each size rather than the four I'll need. The solution, one end of each cord has the appropriately sized tip (held in my right hand as I knit), the other end has a tip a size smaller (held in my left hand) to hold the previous round of stitches.

Confession Time

Everything was going well until I got about 30 rounds into the sleeves. Using handspun, there's no way to perfectly match the striping of each sleeve, but it was a little too far off. I took one sleeve off my needles and re-knit it, starting with a different yarn cake (or rather the opposite end of the other sleeve's cake). I was quickly back on track for my two-at-a-time sleeves.

The striping isn't and exact match, but it's closer in value.

Needles: skacel by addi Click Bamboo interchangeable needles


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